directions_bike by Chris Riches -

Saint-Hilaire-de-Riez to La Tranche-sur-Mer

The weather was cooler than the previous few days when I left Saint-Hilaire-de-Riez, and it would remain relatively cool throughout the day. After the preceding heat it wasn’t unpleasant to encounter cloud cover and also the first light rain of the trip, during the morning. Looking at the time and distance given by the navigation apps I was hoping to reach a campsite near La Rochelle later the same day, but the windy conditions would mean it would take longer.

The route involved cycling along some beautiful coastal paths and the town of Bretignolles-sur-Mer felt particularly unspoilt. The resort town of Les Sables-d’Olonne had an impressive seafront and a long beachfront promenade.

I decided to have lunch in the port town of Bourgenay, overlooking the harbour. On the way there was a surreal holiday village with a accommodation, a lake and a golf course, and at one point I was cycling behind a golf buggy transporting members of staff around the resort.

When it became clear that it wasn’t going to be possible to reach a campsite near La Rochelle before it’s reception closed, I found one on the outskirts of La Tranche-sur-Mer with a dedicated section and price for cyclists. I walked in to the centre of the town later in the evening which was very pleasant.

Distance: 57 miles

Maximum temperature: 25 degrees C

Seafront at Les Sables-d’Olonne

La Tranche-sur-Mer

The port of Bourgenay

Bretignolles-sur-Mer

directions_bike by Chris Riches -

La Tranche-sur-Mer to La Rochelle

The conditions were perfect for the ride to La Rochelle, and it was nice to find that almost the only traffic found on the wide roads consisted of other cyclists. There were an increasing number of cycle tourists now going in both directions. The route was mostly inland and passed through numerous enormous sunflower fields and a nature reserve.

The approach to La Rochelle was along a straight canal, and I was staying in hotel a few miles to the east of the city, which I reached by mid afternoon.

La Rochelle, where Germany would establish a submarine base during the Second World War, was founded during the 10th century and I was very keen to see the city. I cycled in to the city centre to visit the beautiful, picturesque harbour and well preserved old town area, which had an incredible charm about it.

Distance: 42 miles

Maximum temperature: 23 degrees C

Sunflowers at La Faute-sur-Mer

Flat inland landscape, utilising the solar panel for charging phone

La Rochelle harbour

La Rochelle harbour

La Rochelle old town

directions_bike by Chris Riches -

La Rochelle to La Palmyre

Having spent the previous day in Île de Re, and cycling back to La Rochelle in the evening to stay in the municipal campsite there – having found all the campsites I enquired in Île de Re to be full – it was time to leave La Rochelle and continue the journey south.

La Rochelle harbour is renowned for it’s sailing yachts, which I saw in abundance when leaving the southern part of city, passing through Les Minimes. Apparently this is the largest marina in France for pleasure boats.

Further down the coast outside La Rochelle the tide was quite far out and there were places selling oysters and mussels. I passed through some low key resort areas, and around the edge of Rochefort, where I stopped in a very large Decathlon store to get some bicycle things.

The most direct route south would require taking a small boat across the Charente river, as the adjacent transporter bridge was closed for refurbishment and the main bridge seemed to be for motorists only. All the other passengers were cyclists too, taking the same shortcut.

After passing through the marshland near Marennes I cycled over a bridge crossing the estuary of La Seudre and the beach on the other side fringed with thick pine forest became visible. I cycled through the pine forest for a while and then reached the campsite at La Palmyre where I pitched the tent in a large clearing amongst the pine trees and pleasant aroma of incense thanks to a neighbouring camper. Later in the evening I cycled a few miles down the road, passing the zoo and Club Med, to find a pretty long beach with honey coloured sand. On the way back to the campsite, along the seafront path, I noticed a convoy of jet skiers.

Distance: 61 miles

Maximum temperature: 23 degrees C

Leaving La Rochelle

The largest marina in France for pleasure boats at Les Minimes, La Rochelle

Beach at La Palmyre

Jet ski convoy

directions_bike by Chris Riches -

La Palmyre to Soulac-sur-Mer

The most direct route down the west coast involved getting a car ferry across from Royan to Pointe de Grave. To avoid that would have meant a large detour, almost to Bordeaux, so I cycled the short distance to Royan and arrived by ferry in Pointe de Grave at lunch time.

When the sea became visible from the cycle path there was the most surf that I had seen so far on the trip, and the main beach at Soulac-sur-Mer looked very appealing. The area looked like a nice place to stay and I found a campsite which I checked in to around 3pm. It had access to a beach where people were kitesurfing and enjoying the surf and it was a relaxing place to spend some time.

Distance: 22 miles

Maximum temperature: 23 degrees C

Beach next to the campsite in Soulac-sur-Mer

Kitesurfing at Soulac-sur-Mer

Main beach at Soulac-sur-Mer

directions_bike by Chris Riches -

Soulac-sur-Mer to Bordeaux

The sunrise over the ocean at Soulac-sur-Mer was picturesque, it was an easy early morning walk towards the beach from the tent pitch to view the sunrise over the sea. The beach stretched quite far, but further in to the day and further south, the beaches would appear to stretch even further and wider, where the coastline would become less curved.

The sea wouldn’t be visible for much of the route south as it involved travelling along very well constructed paved cycle paths through the pine forest. Often they looked newer and were in better condition than the adjacent roads. I only made 2 stops at the coast at Montalivet-les-Bain and Hourtin-Plage, where I stopped for lunch. Both of these places seemed to be popular with surfers, and the beach at Hourtin stretched impressively in both directions, as far as one could see.

Then I diverted inland further, going through Carcans and Lacanau, before turning almost due east to Bordeaux. The whole route was incredibly flat with only 452 feet of vertical ascent. After turning east I was expecting to encounter some vineyards as I approached Bordeaux. I didn’t see any, and it turned out that the wine regions are mainly found to the north, east and south of the city. The Lacanau – Bordeaux cycle route was very impressive, with a long, well surfaced dedicated cycle path, which is notably straight, with a cleared area a few meters to each side, and then lots of pine trees.

The hotel was in the north of the city close to a lake and it was a nice to see how the scenery changed on the approach through the suburban areas. The following morning I took the tram in to the centre.

Visiting the Tour Pey Berland, next to the cathedral, gave excellent views of the city and provided some historical insights. As did the Musèe des Beaux-artes with it’s large classical collection alongside some scenes of life in the city many centuries ago.

Distance: 82 miles

Maximum temperature: 26 degrees C

Sunrise at Soulac-sur-Mer

Hourtin-Plage

The Lacanau-Bordeaux cycleway

Bordeaux

Bordeaux

Bordeaux Cathedral

Bordeaux

directions_bike by Chris Riches -

Arcachon and Dune du Pilat

Bordeaux was a very interesting detour and well worth the visit, but it was time to go back to the west coast by train and then continue the journey south by bike. The route along the cycleway along the riverbank to Gare de Bordeaux Saint-Jean enabled viewing the city from a different perspective and the station itself was vast. I managed to find the correct regional TER train just in time, which fortunately allowed unassembled bikes on board, and went to nearby Arcachon.

Once I had located a campsite in Arcachon and pitched the tent I visited the main town and sea front area. It was fairly overcast and windy, the town had an international feeling about it and was really busy at the time of my visit. On the rainy walk down in to the town there was a very steep, sandy hill, followed by a lot of grand, luxurious looking villa type houses which seemed to be holiday homes.

It would rain a lot overnight but the weather was far better the next day, making it a good time to visit Dune du Pilat, a few miles down the coast.

Firstly I tried to visit the famous dune by taking a footpath off the main road, this proved to be difficult and then ultimately impossible trying to take the bike along the narrow, steep path. Although I could clearly see part of the dune from the eastern non-coastal side it was hard to get an impression of the whole landscape.

Cycling further along to the southern edge of the vast dune I checked in to a campsite which offered excellent dune and beach access and superb coastal views. When I walked down to the beach, where I spent most of the afternoon the sight of the dune was really extraordinary, rising from the sea. There were many colourful paragliders flying along the length of the dune, almost silently utilising the thermal currents to generate a staggering amount of lift. They were clearly having a great time and came close to each other and people on land at times, performing stunts, and the sight of this was nearly as impressive as the natural wonder of the dune itself.

In the early evening I climbed to the highest point of the dune where the views facing west along the coastline, and also in the easterly direction of the neighbouring enormous pine forest, were incredible.

Paragliders at Dune du Pilat

Dune du Pilat

Dune du Pilat

Sunset at Dune du Pilat

directions_bike by Chris Riches -

Dune du Pilat to Cap de L’homy

The Dune du Pilat was very enjoyable and could have stayed longer but it was nice to get back on the bike again and cycle down the coast. I was informed that it was a public holiday in France and places would be busy.

The route was quite varied passing alongside a few lakes, surf beaches and significant forest in the inland sections.

Stopping at the spectacular beaches of Biscarrosse and Mimizan broke up the ride, there seemed to be some kind of event occurring at Biscarrosse with a large gathering of people on the seafront.

I reached the seaside village of Cap de L’homy by the early evening, where I visited the beach and stayed at the campsite.

Distance: 63 miles

Maximum temperature: 29 degrees C

Biscarrosse Plage

Biscarrosse Plage

Lake at Ispe

Cap de L’homy