La Rochelle to La Palmyre

Having spent the previous day in Île de Re, and cycling back to La Rochelle in the evening to stay in the municipal campsite there – having found all the campsites I enquired in Île de Re to be full – it was time to leave La Rochelle and continue the journey south.

La Rochelle harbour is renowned for it’s sailing yachts, which I saw in abundance when leaving the southern part of city, passing through Les Minimes. Apparently this is the largest marina in France for pleasure boats.

Further down the coast outside La Rochelle the tide was quite far out and there were places selling oysters and mussels. I passed through some low key resort areas, and around the edge of Rochefort, where I stopped in a very large Decathlon store to get some bicycle things.

The most direct route south would require taking a small boat across the Charente river, as the adjacent transporter bridge was closed for refurbishment and the main bridge seemed to be for motorists only. All the other passengers were cyclists too, taking the same shortcut.

After passing through the marshland near Marennes I cycled over a bridge crossing the estuary of La Seudre and the beach on the other side fringed with thick pine forest became visible. I cycled through the pine forest for a while and then reached the campsite at La Palmyre where I pitched the tent in a large clearing amongst the pine trees and pleasant aroma of incense thanks to a neighbouring camper. Later in the evening I cycled a few miles down the road, passing the zoo and Club Med, to find a pretty long beach with honey coloured sand. On the way back to the campsite, along the seafront path, I noticed a convoy of jet skiers.

Distance: 61 miles

Maximum temperature: 23 degrees C

Leaving La Rochelle

The largest marina in France for pleasure boats at Les Minimes, La Rochelle

Beach at La Palmyre

Jet ski convoy

La Palmyre to Soulac-sur-Mer

The most direct route down the west coast involved getting a car ferry across from Royan to Pointe de Grave. To avoid that would have meant a large detour, almost to Bordeaux, so I cycled the short distance to Royan and arrived by ferry in Pointe de Grave at lunch time.

When the sea became visible from the cycle path there was the most surf that I had seen so far on the trip, and the main beach at Soulac-sur-Mer looked very appealing. The area looked like a nice place to stay and I found a campsite which I checked in to around 3pm. It had access to a beach where people were kitesurfing and enjoying the surf and it was a relaxing place to spend some time.

Distance: 22 miles

Maximum temperature: 23 degrees C

Beach next to the campsite in Soulac-sur-Mer

Kitesurfing at Soulac-sur-Mer

Main beach at Soulac-sur-Mer