Les Moitiers-en-Retz to Saint-Hilaire-de-Riez

Decided to set off from the campsite at sunrise and headed straight down the coast. The scenery was quite varied, ranging from the small fishing ports and coastal inlets found near Les Moitiers-en-Retz, cycling along the top section of what appeared to be man-made levees built to prevent coastal flooding, through pine forests, and in the latter part of the day, going through built up beach resorts. Some seemed to stretch for miles along the beach.

Initially I had planned to take the cycle route over to Île de Noirmoutier and then continue further south back to the mainland along the other bridge. It wasn’t until I reached the most northerly crossing point that I discovered that this causeway flooded at high tide, and was actually impassable at the point I arrived, as it was fully submerged. Warning signs were present just before the causeway. This presented a good opportunity to have a crepe and consider what type of detour would be needed. The area was quite low lying and flat at this point, but later in the day, through the pine forests, the terrain had more hills.

Considering I hadn’t made a booking and some of the campsite receptions seemed to close fairly early, I started seeing what accommodation was available and there was a good selection on the route that I was on. Eventually after making some enquiries I found a campsite near the beach, on the outskirts of the town of Saint-Hilaire-de-Riez. After locating exactly where to pitch the tent, which turned out to be in a pine forest, and pitching it, had a very refreshing swim in the sea.

Distance: 45 miles

Maximum temperature: 32 degrees C

The beach at Les Moitiers-en-Retz at sunrise

Coastal wind turbines

Beach at Saint-Hilaire-de-Riez

Sign at the Passage du Gois causeway to Île de Noirmoutier

Saint-Hilaire-de-Riez to La Tranche-sur-Mer

The weather was cooler than the previous few days when I left Saint-Hilaire-de-Riez, and it would remain relatively cool throughout the day. After the preceding heat it wasn’t unpleasant to encounter cloud cover and also the first light rain of the trip, during the morning. Looking at the time and distance given by the navigation apps I was hoping to reach a campsite near La Rochelle later the same day, but the windy conditions would mean it would take longer.

The route involved cycling along some beautiful coastal paths and the town of Bretignolles-sur-Mer felt particularly unspoilt. The resort town of Les Sables-d’Olonne had an impressive seafront and a long beachfront promenade.

I decided to have lunch in the port town of Bourgenay, overlooking the harbour. On the way there was a surreal holiday village with a accommodation, a lake and a golf course, and at one point I was cycling behind a golf buggy transporting members of staff around the resort.

When it became clear that it wasn’t going to be possible to reach a campsite near La Rochelle before it’s reception closed, I found one on the outskirts of La Tranche-sur-Mer with a dedicated section and price for cyclists. I walked in to the centre of the town later in the evening which was very pleasant.

Distance: 57 miles

Maximum temperature: 25 degrees C

Seafront at Les Sables-d’Olonne

La Tranche-sur-Mer

The port of Bourgenay

Bretignolles-sur-Mer